Your tile questions — answered honestly.

Both are made from clay, but porcelain is fired at higher temperatures from a denser, more refined clay. That makes porcelain harder, denser, and far less absorbent — under 0.5% water absorption — so it resists moisture, stains, and scratches better. We typically recommend porcelain for floors, showers, and high-traffic areas, while ceramic is a fine, often more affordable choice for walls and lighter-use spaces.

PEI stands for the Porcelain Enamel Institute scale, a 1-to-5 rating that measures how well a tile's surface resists wear and foot traffic. PEI 1-2 is best for walls and light use, PEI 3 suits most residential floors, and PEI 4-5 handles heavy or commercial traffic. Matching the PEI rating to the room is one of the simplest ways to avoid premature wear.

Large-format tile creates fewer grout lines, which makes a space feel larger, calmer, and easier to clean. The trade-off is that big tiles demand a very flat substrate and precise technique to avoid lippage. They're absolutely worth it when installed correctly by an experienced installer — exactly the kind of work our CTI and GPTP certifications cover.

We install porcelain, ceramic, natural stone, glass, mosaic, and large-format gauged porcelain panels — on floors, walls, showers, backsplashes, fireplaces, and feature walls. Whatever the material, the same quality-first standard applies.

Porcelain is usually the best choice for bathroom floors because it's dense, water-resistant, and durable. For safety in wet areas, choose a tile with a textured or matte finish and a good slip rating rather than a high-gloss surface, which can be slippery when wet.

Glossy tile reflects light and can brighten a dark room, but it shows water spots and can be slippery underfoot. Matte and textured tiles offer better grip and hide smudges, which makes them popular for bathroom and entry floors. The right choice depends on the room, the lighting, and how the space is used.

Often, yes. Larger tiles mean fewer grout lines, so the surface reads as more continuous and the room can feel more open and less busy. The substrate has to be flat enough to support large tile without lippage — which is where an experienced installer earns their keep.

A properly built tile shower uses a bonded waterproof membrane that meets the ANSI A118.10 standard, applied continuously across the walls, floor, and every change of plane, and tied into the drain. The membrane is what actually keeps water out — not the tile and grout, which aren't waterproof on their own. Skipping or rushing this step is the number-one cause of shower failures.

No. Grout is water-resistant but not waterproof, and standard cement grout is porous. That's why proper waterproofing behind and beneath the tile is essential in wet areas, and why we recommend sealing cement grout. Epoxy grout is far more stain- and water-resistant but costs more and is trickier to install.

An uncoupling membrane is a layer installed between the substrate and the tile that allows the two to move independently. It absorbs the small stresses that come from a subfloor expanding, contracting, or shifting, which protects the tile from cracking. Many uncoupling membranes also provide waterproofing when installed to manufacturer specifications.

Lippage is the height difference between the edges of two adjacent tiles — the uneven ridge you can feel with your foot. Some lippage is allowed within industry tolerances, but excessive lippage looks bad, collects dirt, and can be a trip hazard. A flat substrate, the right trowel and mortar, and careful technique keep lippage to a minimum.

Tile and the materials beneath it expand and contract with temperature and humidity. Movement joints — soft, flexible joints placed at changes of plane and at regular intervals per TCNA guideline EJ171 — give that movement somewhere to go. Without them, stress builds up until tiles crack or pop loose, especially in sunny rooms and Colorado's swinging temperatures.

Sometimes — but it depends on the condition and bond of the existing tile, the height it adds, and how it affects doors, fixtures, and transitions. In many cases, removing the old tile and properly prepping the substrate gives a far more reliable, longer-lasting result. We assess each situation honestly rather than taking the shortcut.

Yes. Tile is one of the best surfaces for radiant heated floors because it conducts and holds heat well. The heating system is installed in or under the setting layer, and proper membrane and movement-joint detailing keeps everything performing for years. It's a popular upgrade for Colorado bathrooms.

Industry data for 2026 puts professional tile installation roughly between $10 and $25 per square foot installed nationwide. The final number depends on tile type, pattern complexity, substrate condition, waterproofing needs, and prep work. Because every project is different, the only accurate price is a free, detailed on-site estimate — which we're happy to provide.

A standard bathroom tile installation usually takes about 3 to 5 days including prep, setting, and grouting. Shower or floor-to-ceiling tile can take longer, and a full bathroom remodel commonly runs 3 to 8 weeks depending on scope, plumbing, and material lead times. We give you a realistic schedule up front.

Finalize all your selections — tile, layout, grout color, and fixtures — before work begins, since mid-project changes cause delays. Clear the work area of belongings, secure pets, and plan for the room to be out of use for a few days. We handle dust control and protection of adjacent areas as part of our process.

Rarely. With tile, most of the cost and quality lives in the parts you can't see — the substrate prep, the waterproofing membrane, and the setting materials. A rock-bottom quote often means corners were cut on exactly those layers. Quality first, done once, almost always costs less over the life of the installation.

Not the entire time, but it helps to be available at the start to confirm the plan and at the end for the walkthrough. We keep clear communication throughout so you always know the schedule and what's happening in your home.

Yes. We provide free, no-obligation estimates. Reach out through our contact form or email designtodivine@gmail.com and we'll schedule a visit to measure your space and give you an honest, detailed quote.

For most tile, regular sweeping and a pH-neutral cleaner are all you need — avoid harsh acids on natural stone and grout. Cement grout should be sealed and re-sealed periodically to resist staining. Wipe up spills promptly and skip abrasive pads that can dull the finish.

Standard cement-based grout is porous and should be sealed after it cures — then re-sealed periodically — to resist stains and moisture. Epoxy grout doesn't require sealing because it's non-porous, though it's more expensive and harder to install. We'll tell you which applies to your project.

Cracking usually points to a problem underneath — an unstable or flexing substrate, missing movement joints, poor prep, or the wrong setting materials. Simply replacing the cracked tile without fixing the cause leads to repeat failures. We diagnose the root cause first, then repair it properly.

Yes — and we do it often. We assess what went wrong, whether it's failed waterproofing, lippage, bad layout, or cracking, and rebuild it to standard. Bringing in a certified installer to correct a failed job is far cheaper than living with water damage down the road.

CTI stands for Certified Tile Installer, a credential from the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation earned by passing a demanding written exam and a timed, hands-on installation judged for quality. Most installers never earn it. Divine Design holds CTI certification #2038.

GPTP stands for Gauged Porcelain Tile Panel installation. These are very large, thin porcelain panels that require specialized tools, handling, and technique. Our GPTP certification means we're trained to install them correctly without cracking the material.

Yes. Divine Design is a licensed contractor and fully insured. Hiring a licensed, insured professional protects your home and your investment, and moves all the project risk onto us — where it belongs.

Owner Matt Taylor has been installing tile and contracting since 2004 — more than two decades of hands-on experience. Divine Design is family owned and operated.

We serve Denver and the surrounding suburbs, including Aurora, Lakewood, Arvada, Westminster, Thornton, Centennial, Littleton, Highlands Ranch, Englewood, Wheat Ridge, Brighton, Commerce City, Parker, Castle Rock, Golden, Broomfield, and Northglenn. If your town isn't listed, just ask.

We handle full bathroom remodels — including showers, tub surrounds, floors, niches, and waterproofing — as well as kitchen remodels, backsplashes, and standalone tile work. Tile is our specialty, and it's the part of a remodel where craftsmanship matters most.

Look for verifiable certification such as CTI, a contractor license, full insurance, real experience, and a willingness to explain their waterproofing and prep methods. Be wary of quotes that seem unusually low — the savings often come from skipped prep or waterproofing you can't see until it fails.

Reach out through our contact page or email designtodivine@gmail.com with a bit about your project. We'll schedule a free estimate, help you plan materials and layout, and give you an honest quote and timeline. From there, our certified team handles the rest.